3dstuffmaker Prusa (Classic) Review May 14, 2013 05:50AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 7 |
3dstuffmaker | eBay
Watch our video here.
Re: 3dstuffmaker Prusa (Classic) Review May 14, 2013 05:47PM |
Registered: 11 years ago Posts: 1,592 |
kit makers reply ...Re: 3dstuffmaker Prusa (Classic) Review May 15, 2013 01:57AM |
Registered: 11 years ago Posts: 16 |
Re: kit makers reply ...Re: 3dstuffmaker Prusa (Classic) Review May 17, 2013 04:10AM |
Re: kit makers reply ...Re: 3dstuffmaker Prusa (Classic) Review May 17, 2013 06:11AM |
Admin Registered: 11 years ago Posts: 3,096 |
Re: kit makers reply ...Re: 3dstuffmaker Prusa (Classic) Review May 19, 2013 02:55PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 7 |
Quote
waitaki wrote:
You shouldn't need to go to 230C for PLA - makes me wonder if something is amiss somewhere? When you mention 1.75 nozzle, I think you are referring to the filament size (1.75mm or 3mm).
I guess it has no heated bed?
Quote
Robrep2 Wrote:
Hi BobbyMartin,
Thanks for this review !
You guys have great video skills- love it!
Am one of the product designers/developers so I am 'rapped to see this... here are some tips/suggestions to get even better prints.
Ramps I find that mixing print materials is messy. PLA wins on most fronts and new exciting version come every day- making ABS obsolete and poisonous by comparison. Hence we do not offer headed bed on our PCB. It's of no use and dangerous.
Heated bed - has no value for PLA printing. Even with ABS - i get better results using paint tape or crape/paint tape or even band-aid type tape- over Capton taped print plate. So- it may also burn some people 100+' being not usual...
Wiring tip All cables have a pic-tail type wire wrapping which can be undone- to re-fix the wiring. Use this wrap to lay the cables, following the threaded rods, so they converge neatly into a one of the front corners of your Classic Prusa. This tidies up your wires and still gives you access to PCB.
Print accuracy can be set to professional quality: start always slow by reducing extruder multiplier to slowest possible to get smooth plastic flow. Use minimum clutch pressure on Extruder driver and the layer height as small as you can eg 100 microns. This will give you very smooth surface finishes in the 50-100 micron per layer region smiling smiley
Classic Prusa is a super professional education tool- I loved building mine because it tough me 3D printing concepts as well as CNC and mechanics and electronics/wiring, software, gcode etc... it can be a tough learning curve- pending on your professional training scope, but a rewarding one- for sure!
PLA settings I find temperatures between 195' and 230' all work fine. The ambient temperature of your room may alter this a little. Basically start at 190' and go up by 5' until your plastic flows very well - without curling. Always go from low temperature to higher- to find the best setting for your chosen PLA type.
Filament size Both 3mm and 1.75 work Ok -just we found 3mm to be best all-round performer, hence we use it as our standard size.
Nozzle size We offer 3 nozzle sizes. Quick print 100micron- default type - Fine print 100 micron and Super fine print 100 micron.
The finer you go, the slower the print speed and the more print and 3D cad design skill you need to make it work. The benefit of a finer print nozzle is that the finer nozzle can print thinner walls. The downside is that you need advanced print and 3Ddesign skills to use them effectively. A jeweler, for instance would love a super fine nozzle- someone doing electronic enclosures, would prefer the standard nozzle.
Print samples check out [3dstuffshare.com]- we have print samples there as well the the STL and print setting files- so you can get same results as we do. You can also upload our own designs and share them smiling smiley
Slicer we provide the one that works- but you need to design your parts with your own supports. Later versions have auto support- but these versions are not always stable - or are only best for advanced users... Also to do good slicing- you need good STL files and not all that comes from thingiverse has great STL. Much of their stuff needs STL hole fixing or redesigning- its a mixed bag. Try [www.3dstuffshare.com] - you will find STL and print settings and ratings- a much quicker and more informative way to get good prints.
BTW... every kit is made form the same quality level of parts, than our professional units... We just believe that no-one wants a poor quality kit- whatever the price!
So everyone is getting top-quality- period.
This means, after building the kits and a little printing/software/design practice- you can get professional prints, even/especially with the classic Prusa ! smiling smiley
best regards & happy 3dstuffmaking smiling smiley
rob
3DStuffmaker.com
Re: kit makers reply ...Re: 3dstuffmaker Prusa (Classic) Review May 23, 2013 06:16AM |
Registered: 11 years ago Posts: 89 |
Re: kit makers reply ...Re: 3dstuffmaker Prusa (Classic) Review May 28, 2013 10:53AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 7 |
Watch how we built it.
Re: kit makers reply ...Re: 3dstuffmaker Prusa (Classic) Review June 01, 2013 02:58AM |
Registered: 11 years ago Posts: 89 |