3dstuffmaker.com - opinions?

It's locked. You need to install a bootloader and activate it. I did it a few months ago before the Gen 6 board blew a driver.
You need to buy a USB ASP with a 6 pin connector. 10 pin wont fit.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/15/2014 05:43PM by mikefiatx19.

I need to rebuild my printer soon...

Going to use all the steppers on another machine..something with a good design... not like this evolution crap, maybe a delta

All the bearings are now junk... appears they are now bushings lol
My gen 6 board is pretty much junk, all the connectors are burning out and need regular reseating... its just a matter of time before they are carbonised completely..
I could probably resolder beefy pins but I cant say i like this gen 6 board much... no heated bed input or mutiple extruders..


Thats another thing that i was completely mislead on...

This printer supporting up to 4 extruders... I am pretty sure the gen 6 board cant do this... nor does it have an input for the heated bed thermistor... I sure as hell would not try and run 4 extruder's from this board. I remember their spec sheet sayin it can print ABS.. i am sure the stock hotends would just die going past 220c
atm my heated bed is just a bunch of resistors attached to aluminium and currently use uhu glue..

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/15/2014 09:41PM by nechaus.

I keep looking at the Sanguinololu as a drop in replacment for my Gen 6 board. Has anyone here done this. I see they are just $45 from Geeetech another $15 if you want a LCD controler board with a SD Cardslot.

Thanks Mike

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nechaus
... no heated bed input ....
.

Technically it is possible. [reprap.org]

I had been collecting parts to do this modification, but now have been looking at printerboards from Geeetech. I did just buy a replacement gen6 board from them though... I got a whole 30 seconds of movement on the X axis before it stopped entirely. Geeetech's solution was to send me a new stepper driver, assuming I am willing and able to replace the stepper driver individually. I didn't like that approach and won't be ordering from them again if I can help it.

I haven't worked out the specifics on converting the opto sensors over to the printerboard yet, though. The 3DStuffmaker sensors have 4 wires on a 5 pin connector. The printerboard only uses 3. Not sure if I'd have to replace the sensors as well. I'm just trying to get a working printer, not sink a bunch more money into this cobbled together machine.

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nechaus
I need to rebuild my printer soon...

Going to use all the steppers on another machine..something with a good design... not like this evolution crap, maybe a delta

If you want something simple then the delta might be a good choice. I am building one at the moment on my Smartrap. The stuffmaker has been junked and it's going to be the food for the delta.

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Miertam
I keep looking at the Sanguinololu as a drop in replacment for my Gen 6 board. Has anyone here done this. I see they are just $45 from Geeetech another $15 if you want a LCD controler board with a SD Cardslot.

I swapped the gen 6 with Ramps, it was up and running in less than 1 afternoon, around $45 too and supports 2 extruders and heated bed. Also, the board is so popular that you can always get good support from the community. Best part is the drivers can be swapped for $5 a go.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/17/2014 06:09PM by mikefiatx19.

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mikefiatx19

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nechaus
I need to rebuild my printer soon...

Going to use all the steppers on another machine..something with a good design... not like this evolution crap, maybe a delta

If you want something simple then the delta might be a good choice. I am building one at the moment on my Smartrap. The stuffmaker has been junked and it's going to be the food for the delta.

Quote
Miertam
I keep looking at the Sanguinololu as a drop in replacment for my Gen 6 board. Has anyone here done this. I see they are just $45 from Geeetech another $15 if you want a LCD controler board with a SD Cardslot.

I swapped the gen 6 with Ramps, it was up and running in less than 1 afternoon, around $45 too and supports 2 extruders and heated bed. Also, the board is so popular that you can always get good support from the community. Best part is the drivers can be swapped for $5 a go.

I cannot believe it, last night while I was watching TV, I put the terminator t-800 print on.. after about maybe an hour.. My printer stopping running..
I sniffed the board and can smell that magic smoke smell.. something has fried,,Soon realised it was the input capacitor..

The power supply I use is pretty good quality..never had any issue from it... I don't get how it just blew... some black crap is on the side of it..

I do not think 3DSM should be in business...

I have just replaced the capacitor on the board and the stupid thing is still not running...

I noticed the base of the board is stupidly hot but no light are on..
I think its dead..

time to get ramps

Could someone please recommend me a good delta printer?

id prefer to build it

I went for the Kossel mini, i am half way through the build. I tend to be really slow with these things though so it might take me a while.
The frame is basically 1 base corner and 1 top corner, you print each one 3 times.
Best part is, if you want a bigger print area you just use longer extrusions and arms.
It uses 15x15 extrusions normally, I had 20x20 extrusions lying around so I am building a variant of the Kossel mini.
[www.thingiverse.com]
It uses either v-rail wheels, a linear rack or 8mm smooth rods for movement on the 3 rails. I went for the 8mm smooth rod add ons because its cheaper and I have the idea that it's easier to fix if it breaks.
[www.thingiverse.com] & [www.thingiverse.com]
I think I will try spectra line for the drive as it has had pretty good reviews.

Happy hunting

My 3dstuffmaker Prusa is 5 months old. No heated bed, bowden type extruder, and gen6 board.

I found that the design could be improved.
The Gen6 board is prone to misstep if you crank the speed more than 30mm/s, but the extruder is bowden which is actually designed for high speed and have major oozing problem (being the 0.7 mm nozzle).

The prusa is printing happily now after I upgraded the board to RAMPS, and replaced the x carriage, extruder to Wade-Greg's Extruder and the hot end.

For learning how the 3d printing works, i guess it works fine. But after upgrading, I would prefer the board just start from the RAMPS board, and the extruder to be the wade's extruder.

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indojogger
My 3dstuffmaker Prusa is 5 months old. No heated bed, bowden type extruder, and gen6 board.

I found that the design could be improved.
The Gen6 board is prone to misstep if you crank the speed more than 30mm/s, but the extruder is bowden which is actually designed for high speed and have major oozing problem (being the 0.7 mm nozzle).

The prusa is printing happily now after I upgraded the board to RAMPS, and replaced the x carriage, extruder to Wade-Greg's Extruder and the hot end.

For learning how the 3d printing works, i guess it works fine. But after upgrading, I would prefer the board just start from the RAMPS board, and the extruder to be the wade's extruder.

yeah.. once you upgrade and start using the machine properly you start to understand the design flaws...
Using a bowden system is meant to be faster but yet their hotends cant handle it.. why would you release something like this.. WHY!!!
I had zero oozing with a Direct drive system using ABS or PLA.. using their hotends I had just crap results... intermittent extrusion..
I made a super cheap heated bed from a plate of aluminium and resistors and an old 12 volt car charger... does the job..

cranking speeds past 40mm causes steppers to over heat and board to fry quickly.. I added fans to all but the Z steppers..
Do yourself a favor if you are going to keep using the gen 6, I would beef up the pins on the board..even coating them with a small amount of solder would be better..
Also upgrade the power wires to the board... they are the incorrect gauge for the printers power consumption..

Does anyone have a recommendation for replacement stepper motors? Or at least know what size they are? I'm not at home to measure mine.

My X axis has blown on 3 separate boards now. The first time I thought it was a cheap Geeetech replacement I had. Then a replacement 3DSM board blew. Knowing that was too much to be a coincidence I hooked up my original board and blam-o! It died within 30 seconds. This is literally the worst machine I've ever seen in my life.

Check the cable connections in the 4 pin connector. I also blew the gen 6 due to a dodgy connector on the 3dsm.
I just measured the motors that i took out of my 3dsm and they are 42mm square by 40 mm long. As far as I know this is a common size. I would like to give you a part number but there is only a QC sticker on the motor.

2nd, buy a RAMPS board, if it blows an axis again replace the driver for $5, I have also heard that you can program the 2nd extruder connection to drive one of the axis by altering the firmware if the damage is beyond just the driver board.

Mike

Do you or anyone here know how to hook up the fan to a switch on the 3DSM Mega Prusa to a controller or something. Its to high all the time and i dont want to buy a manual potentiometer. I run Cura and it cant get to 210 degrees but when i run that stock programe it runs fine from 187-225.

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Sketchy28
Do you or anyone here know how to hook up the fan to a switch on the 3DSM Mega Prusa to a controller or something. Its to high all the time and i dont want to buy a manual potentiometer. I run Cura and it cant get to 210 degrees but when i run that stock programe it runs fine from 187-225.

Is it a current machine? I checked their website and it looks like they've got a few new revisions of their machines available. I don't know what circuit boards they're using these days. I do know from personal experience , though: STAY FAR AWAY FROM 3DSTUFFMAKER. It seems a bit too late for you now, but this is advice I wish everyone would heed. They use the cheapest, most non-upgradable parts they can source.

Also, are you setting the fan speed in your slicer program? I'm not entirely following your workflow and question.

Hi all, I have successfully fitted and programmed a Tennsylu board to my 3DSM running Marlin with the option of fitting a TFT/SD reader in the future. This board is far more superior to the Gen6 board and has many options to upgrade/future-proof my printer, and has the boot loader so easy as chips to flash using FLIP via USB. To fit this I had to produce an interface board for the optical stops to work but this was very easy to make. The other mods I have completed to date is I have made a new extruder hob from stainless steel rod as the 3DSM one is just an 8mm bolt with the thread hobbed, so there is little surface ara for the filament to grab, and fitting a E3D hot end, this has made a huge difference to this machine and I am now getting repeatable reliable prints. If anyone wants any details to any of these mods I would be more than happy to assist.